He Ran Across the Sky

It was night time and he was alone, but not lonely. He ran on the top of a very large hill on a trail worn smooth down to reddish dust and with ruts scoured by eons of erosion. The occasional crack of electricity surged across an old powerline, and heat lightning flickered across the sky, a sky that looked like a black curtain pinpricked by thousands of points of starlight. His breathing was more like panting, his throat and the top of lungs were sore from all the hours he had journeyed in the thin air. The trail twisted and turned as it moved up and down along the flow of the land and rocks and tree roots made it necessary to pay attention lest one trip and fall. He forced his pace to be regular, like that of a metronome, because it distracted him from his own tiredness as he ran across the sky.

Clock time had lost its meaning. Occasionally, a feeling of fear or anxiety entered into his mind and filled his heart with panic. Damn it, how much further to go? Damn the miles for loitering. However, he forced himself to let these feelings go for they were feelings, not facts, and to embrace them, to give them large life, meant he would have been consumed by these feelings. Let them come and let them go and don't let the prisoners run the jail. Fear and anxiety take you out of the present moment and are the killers of dreams. He was thirsty and hungry again so he sipped the remnants of now-warm water from his bottle and he ate a small chunk of banana while he ran. Then he realized how hungry he was and was scared that he would run out of food and not be able to continue to run that night. But you can't control what might occur any more than control the rising of the sun, so that feeling too was allowed to drift away. More than once, he caught himself training the beam of his flashlight way out in front of him to see what lay ahead but this too was to live in the future so he eventually told himself to train the flashlight only on the ground directly before him as he continued to race across the sky.

As he rhythmically bounced along his mind began to drift back to the past and all that had transpired to get him here. In what seemed like a different universe, there was point in time where he was going to run on a similar journey off in a different land. But he incurred a terrible wound and was fearful he would never run again. In short order, another health issue came up, and then a personal tragedy arose. It was all part of the ebb and flow of life and sometimes you need to take a step back in order to take two forward. Out of all of this, he resolved himself back then to train and work as hard as he could to race across the sky, for as long as it took, vowing to never give up. Never, ever give up. Over the months, through the rain and the pain and the sun and the snow, though he stumbled, staggered, faltered, and fell, he always got back up, pressing to run a few seconds faster and a mile longer. There were those who insisted that he wouldn't be able to run across the sky, those that offered him no support and abandoned him. But he ignored them and prepared to run across the sky anyway and felt internally stronger because of it, because regret, disappointment and bitterness are past-centered feelings that prevent you from living for today and are the killers of dreams.

He was just happy to run and as he ran he told himself ``Patience and focus'' over and over again like a magic mantra. This kept him focused in the present moment, the only thing over which he had a modicum of control. Realizing that all that we are and all that have is now, with no beginning nor any end. Divorce did not matter. Cancer and other health problems did not matter. Job security did not matter. There were no limits and the only limits that existed were those we set on ourselves. The only thing that mattered was the moment he was living and he loved living and running was a part of his living. He recalled a favorite translated quote from Lao Tzu, in the Tao Te Ching, who said, ``If you realize that all things change, there is nothing you will try to hold on to. If you aren't afraid of dying, there is nothing you can't achieve.'' That is how he ran across the sky ... one mile at a time.

Along the way, out of habit, he looked for the front two pointer stars of the Big Dipper in order to find the North Star and sought out Orion in the sky. In his mind, a soothing, stirring verse played over and over again, synchronized perfectly with his pace. Down below in a valley near Turquoise Lake was a collection of shimmering lights known as Mayqueen and it was beautiful. As the minutes passed, he focused on the sounds of his footsteps and breathing. Out in the middle of the night, out in the middle of the Colorado Rockies, he felt a surge of strength and of energy from his sister, his only immediate family, and the friends in his life because they were metaphysically with him. At this moment he was filled with gratitude and humility and felt like the luckiest man in the world. Gone was any doubt, gone were any expectations and pressure, gone like the remnant ribbons of the wind rustling through the pine trees. All through the months leading to this moment, he did what anyone would do in that darkest moment before the dawn ... he clung to hope. The hope of running across the sky sustained him.

It was night time and he was alone, but not lonely. There was comfort in the darkness, in his aloneness, and solace in the salt of his tears. He ran up a climbing, rocky road that entered into the center of the town of Leadville. The houses and and buildings had the appearance of being shuttered up and things were strangely calm and quiet. Finally, off in the distance, he saw a small gathering of people, flashing lights, and heard crys of excitement and joy. Sarah, his unwavering friend and right hand, standing off to the side of the street, was patiently waiting and calling for him. He could stop running now for a little while. All that began long ago came to a temporary end. His run across the sky was complete and his love for himself, his sister and his friends, all of the world, and life, still remained, enduring, and refusing to fade away.

-- Phil Turk, 2011

Tapering Down in the Southwest

Following is a brief update on the past couple of weeks. As Leadville approached, I decided to go all out and spend some time acclimitizing to the looming high altitude of the race. After all, I have spent so much time training why stop now? Let's push all the poker chips into the center of the table and let 'er rip.

After reading LOTS of papers and articles on high altitude training, I decided to adapt the "sleep high, train low" model. My old stomping grounds of Flagstaff, Arizona is one of the uniquely ideal places in the U.S. set up to use this approach. It sits at over 7,000 feet yet it is an easy hour drive to get to Camp Verde, Arizona at approximately 3,000 feet. I would be able to taper/train there and since I used to work at Northern Arizona University, an old colleague (Roy St. Laurent) and I would be able to get a heavy dose of research done on a stat paper we've been working on. Perfect!

Here is a terse summary of some of the places I was able to visit just in case anyone happens to be in the area and wants a little taste of adventure. I am indebted to Jason Henrie's blog for motivating the first two runs. When running in the desert in the summer, get an early start, take some S-Caps along, and bring plenty of water! If you are by yourself, as I was, tell someone where you are going and when you will be back. Let me preface this by saying none of the runs were particularly hilly. If anyone has any questions about these runs or wants more details, then don't hesitate to email me at
pturk@stat.wvu.edu

Run #1 Towel Creek Trail

This trail is about 14 miles southeast of Camp Verde. I would say a downside of the trail is that it is quite rocky in sections rendering moderate sections of the trail unrunnable.

View of the Towel Creek drainage from above the trailhead.

You will also stand a chance of mixing it up with a rattlesnake so watch your step.

Poised and ready!

However, some positives of the trail are that it is remote so you will have lots of scenic solitude. Also, if you run far enough into the drainge down towards the Verde River (6 miles one way?), you will encounter some Indian cave dwellings. Please respect this treasure and do NOT take any artifacts (e.g., pottery chards).

Run #2 Lime Kiln Trail

Wow! This was one gem of a run and I highly recommend it to any serious trail runner. Running from Dead Horse State Park (near Cottonwood) for about 15 miles northeast towards Sedona, this trail is the quintessential southwest high-desert trail run with lots of runnable red rock, sweeping plains, and scenic vistas. It was built only a few years ago. Run this trail but do pay attention to the cairns.

As good a desert trail run as it gets.

Run #3 Parsons Trail

Sycamore Canyon Wilderness has always been my favorite chunk of real estate in Arizona. Parsons Trail drops you into the heart of the canyon and sends you north along a rare desert riparian zone fed by springs.

Sycamore Canyon Wilderness.

The road to the trailhead (roughly 11 miles west of Old Cottonwood) is rough in spots so I would not recommend taking a nice car here. I had been told the trail was heavily used so I was surprised at how poorly marked and overgrown it was with thorny desert brush (e.g., cat claw). Several times I got lost and spent a considerable effort backtracking before relocating the trail.

One among several springs you will encounter along the trail.

Cairns are quite intermittant so don't count on them. Frankly, Parsons Spring is anticlimatic, ending in a brushy wash.

Run #4 Monument Valley

One of the most impressive areas I have seen in recent memory, Monument Valley sits along the Utah/Arizona border on the Navajo Indian Reservation. Huge spires of red sandstone reach towards the heavens and you can see for miles in any direction. It is easy to see why many old western movies were filmed here.

The Twin Mittens of Monument Valley.

This is area is off the beaten path so plan your travels accordingly. Be sure to take in the excellent visitor's center before leaving! I learned a lot about Navajo history and particularly enjoyed the portion on the Code Talkers.

The vastness of Monument Valley.

The running would take place on the so-called scenic drive so get an early start before the tourists start piling into the place.

Run #5 Wupatki National Monument and Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument

This is a pair of gems located about 20 miles north of Flagstaff. There is a scenic
blacktop road that runs for 35 miles in a loop one can take in either direction that connects both monuments. In the northern Wupatki section, one can walk among Indian pueblo ruins from the 1100's, see out into the Painted Desert for miles or see the Vermillion Cliffs, and watch the monsoon storm clouds build over the San Francisco Peaks. Check out the awesome visitor's center near the Wupatki Pueblo; the pottery was amazing.

Wupatki Pueblo.

Further south, you will encounter old cinder cones (e.g., Sunset Crater) with patches of wildflowers some of which spewed large black lava flows that still exist in pristine condition to this day. An idea I have is to run the entire 35-mile scenic drive one day next year. Anyone care to join me? Yes, I am serious!

Desert wildflower.

The Ultimate "A-List Race"

Last Thursday through Sunday, I was up in Cleveland attending the 3-Day for the Cure. Put on by the Susan G. Komen Foundation, the event raises money for education and research about causes, treatment, and the search for a cure to breast cancer. My sister and her husband volunteer their time for the event and were co-captains of the so-called "lunch station" this year.

Getting ready outside of Cleveland Browns stadium.

In a nutshell, all the event volunteers had to get trained on Thursday in downtown Cleveland. Each of the next three days, breast cancer survivors, their family members, friends, and supporters walk a different 20-mile course through the streets of the suburbs of Cleveland before heading to an area where they are fed and then sleep in tents for the night. All the walkers raises sponsorship money to participate with the money going towards breast cancer research.

A sea of pink tents.

For some of these people (and I say this with all the respect in the world), including those afflicted with breast cancer trudging away in the blistering heat, pounding the pavement for 60 miles is the toughest thing they will ever try in their lives. Along the course, there are aid stations including a bigger "lunch station" where I was at. We, the crew, would get up at 4:30 am and head over to the cook tent for some breakfast. Then, we were bused to our aid station location where we had several hours to set up the Western shelters, prepare the hydration and food, decorate the area, and so on. Walkers started coming in around 10 am until around 2 pm. After that, we'd break down and head back to camp. I'd say we served over 1,200 lunches each day ... it was pretty fast-paced work. The crew I was on rocked!

Setting up ... calm before the storm.

Over the course of Friday, Saturday and Sunday, I met many great people, heard many inspirational stories, and witnessed many acts of courage and strength. Unfortunately, it is all too easy for me to slip on occasion and think I am somehow "special" for running ultras -- damn ego :-( The reality of the matter is that what I witnessed this past weekend was truly special and put things in proper perspective. No ultrarunner nor Ironman had an advantage in the Toughness Department on many of these walkers.

Once all the walkers had completed the course, we all assembled in a large outdoor area in celebration and to remember those lost to this terrible disease. Having lost my mother to breast cancer and then having witnessed what my sister had to endure in her battle with breast cancer, the closing ceremony was quite emotionally moving to me on a personal level.

Honor the survivors.

In closing, I'd like to give a shout out to my sister who has poured herself into this cause now for three years with nary a complaint nor any need to turn the spotlight on herself. Tirelessly, unselfishly, she has spent lots of her time and money to ensure the walkers were taken care of. How refreshing to see that kind of altruism in this day and age. Bravo, sister!

Lauren Weaver in her casual lunch attire.